This will be my last post for the next 2 days. At 2pm today I will be on a train for 46 hours. Chicago Union to the Port of Portland. Half meandering stroll across the beautiful American plains and half endurance contest. I don’t doubt that the landscapes I will cross will be breathtakingly beautiful. The Great Plains through the Rocky Mountains and into the Pacific North West.
Chicago was a whirlwind of a city. Great food, plenty of dive bars, and a lot of people who really care about beer. Every bar I walked into I was able to strike up conversations about good beer. You can tell a good beer city when the people are talking about larger craft breweries as too mainstream for their own tastes. I came in search of Goose Island. But was quickly steered towards Two Brother’s Ebel’s Weiss and Revolution ‘s Coup d’état Saison. Both excellent Chicago local brews.
Both can be found at a place in Linkin Park called Delilah’s. Quite possibly my new favorite Chicago dive. We get there fairly early and don’t realize until a horde of goth kids walk in and the music cranks up that this is a punk bar. That’s why we got dirty looks from the door man as we walked in wearing our khakis and brand name shirts.
I must say I truly missed a bar that shamelessly plays the New York Dolls at full volume with random punk VHS videos playing on every tv as two lesbians with nose rings make out on the corner sofa. The quintessential dirty bar sofa with flat cushions, grease stained armrests, and cigarette holes. I guess Miami just isn’t at this level of dive bar perfection.
I am told Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love first met at this bar. Perhaps this is just good punk lore of the good old days of The Meat Puppets, the Melvins, and “Bleach”, but I’m happy to call it true if the bartender says so. Bartenders are usually the unofficial authority on people’s neighborhood histories like this. I order another Saison and enjoy the over distorted power chords.